Ashgabat Eats | A Delicious Guide to Turkmen Cuisine

Are you planning a trip to Ashgabat and curious about the local food scene? Beyond the stunning architecture and marble facades, a world of flavor awaits in Turkmenistan’s capital city. Get ready to tantalize your taste buds with a journey through Ashgabat’s culinary landscape. This guide will be your trusted companion, revealing the must-try dishes, sharing insider tips on dining etiquette, introducing you to unique local ingredients, and even some fascinating facts about this captivating city. Prepare to savor the true flavors of Ashgabat!

I. A Taste of Turkmenistan: Exploring Ashgabat’s Culinary Heritage

Turkmen cuisine, like the nation’s history, is a blend of influences, shaped by its position along the Silk Road and its nomadic heritage. The food is hearty, flavorful, and often centered around lamb, reflecting the importance of livestock in Turkmen culture. Dishes are often shared, emphasizing the importance of community and hospitality.

II. Local Specialties: Must-Try Dishes in Ashgabat

Prepare your palate for an unforgettable adventure through Ashgabat’s culinary treasures.

1. Palow (Turkmen Plov): This national dish is the undisputed king of Turkmen cuisine.

   • Description: Palow is a fragrant and flavorful rice pilaf, a hearty combination of long-grain rice, slow-cooked lamb (or sometimes beef), carrots, onions, and dried fruits like raisins or barberries, all simmered in a rich, savory broth. The meat is cooked until incredibly tender, and the rice absorbs all the delicious flavors of the broth and spices. It’s often served with a fresh, crisp salad, such as a tomato and cucumber salad.
   • Where to Find It: Seek out a traditional çayhana (teahouse) or a local restaurant specializing in Turkmen cuisine. Many restaurants offer Palow as a lunch and dinner special.

2. Dograma: A hearty and flavorful soup that is a beloved dish in Turkmenistan.

   • Description: Dograma is a savory soup made with chopped lamb, onions, tomatoes, and warming spices, often served with handmade noodles, or sometimes using local bread. The soup has a complex and earthy flavor profile and is often topped with a dollop of yogurt or sour cream to add a creamy texture and a touch of tang. It is the perfect comfort food, ideal for cooler evenings.
   • Where to Find It: Many family-run restaurants offer this dish. It is often a staple during celebrations and family gatherings, symbolizing hospitality and sharing.

3. Ichlekli: Savoury pastries filled with vegetables and meat.

   • Description: These small, filled pastries are a popular snack or light meal, perfect for a quick bite. They are filled with a savory mixture of spiced minced meat and vegetables, such as potatoes or carrots, and are usually baked or fried until golden and crispy. The crispy exterior contrasts beautifully with the flavorful, soft filling.
   • Where to Find It: Ichlekli can be found in street food stalls, cafes, and bakeries throughout Ashgabat, making them a convenient and tasty snack option.

4. Gutap: Thin, crepe-like pastries with a variety of fillings.

   • Description: Gutap are thin, crescent-shaped pastries, similar to a crepe, that are incredibly versatile and filled with a variety of savory ingredients. Common fillings include spinach and herbs, pumpkin, or meat. They are often cooked on a griddle and served with a side of sour cream or yogurt for dipping.
   • Where to Find It: Gutap are often sold as a delicious street food item and in local restaurants, providing a quick and satisfying meal on the go.

5. Shashlik: Skewered grilled meat, a Central Asian favorite.

   • Description: Shashlik, or skewered grilled meat, is a Central Asian favorite, and in Ashgabat, it is typically lamb or beef marinated in a blend of spices, onions, and sometimes vinegar. The meat is cooked over an open flame, resulting in a smoky flavor and juicy, tender texture. It’s often served with grilled vegetables or bread.
   • Where to Find It: Look for restaurants with outdoor grilling areas or at street food stalls. It is a wonderful option for a casual meal with friends or family.

6. Somsa: Savoury baked pastries.

   • Description: Similar to samosas, Somsa are triangular pastries with a flaky, buttery crust. The crust is often made using a mix of flour, butter, and sometimes yogurt for added richness and flavor. They are typically filled with a mixture of spiced minced meat, onions, and sometimes potatoes. They are baked until golden brown and crispy. Somsa is a popular snack, often enjoyed with tea or as part of a light meal.
   • Where to Find It: Available in bakeries, street vendors, and restaurants serving Central Asian cuisine, making them a readily available treat.

7. Turkmen Tea (Green or Black): An integral part of Turkmen dining.

   • Description: Whether green or black, tea is a constant presence at meals and throughout the day. It’s often served in small, handleless cups called pialas. Sweet treats or candies often accompany the tea. Tea is typically enjoyed with sugar and sweets, and the act of drinking tea symbolizes hospitality and social connection.
   • Where to Find It: Available everywhere – in restaurants, teahouses, and even offered to you by locals. It’s the standard accompaniment to any meal and a way to experience Turkmen culture firsthand.

III. Dining Etiquette and Cultural Norms in Ashgabat

Navigating the dining scene in Ashgabat is a pleasure. Here are some cultural nuances to keep in mind:

• Tipping: Tipping is not always expected but is appreciated for good service. It’s customary to round up the bill, or leave a small tip (around 5-10%) if you are happy with the service. For large bills in expensive restaurants, more may be appropriate.
• Greetings: A polite greeting is essential. A simple Salam (hello) is always appreciated, especially when entering a restaurant or interacting with staff. Often, a warm handshake will follow.
• Table Manners: Always use your right hand for eating and passing items. The left hand is considered unclean. It’s customary to share food with others, especially at family meals, and it is considered polite to accept offers of food and drink. It is not normal to hold conversations at the table or at restaurants.
• Pace of Dining: Meals are generally leisurely affairs. Don’t rush; savor the food and enjoy the company. People often take their time over the meal and use it as a chance to socialize. This is an important cultural norm to embrace and respect.
• Attire: Dress modestly, especially when visiting traditional restaurants or tea houses. While casual attire is acceptable in most places, avoid overly revealing clothing. This shows respect for the local customs.
• Bread and Complimentary Items: Do not waste bread. It is considered very disrespectful. If bread is served, always break it by hand; do not cut it with a knife. It is not always normal to be given complimentary items, and if they are offered, they should be accepted graciously.
• Getting Attention: To get the waiter’s attention, a subtle wave or eye contact is usually sufficient. Avoid shouting or being overly demonstrative.

IV. Key Local Ingredients Defining Turkmen Cuisine

The flavors of Ashgabat are defined by a few key ingredients:

1. Lamb: The cornerstone of Turkmen cuisine.

   • Description: Lamb is the most commonly consumed meat in Turkmenistan, known for its rich flavor and versatility. It is used in a variety of dishes, from Palow to shashlik and soups.
   • If you can’t find it…: Substitute with good-quality beef, keeping in mind the flavor profile will be slightly different.

2. Dried Fruits: Adds sweetness and flavor.

   • Description: Dried fruits like raisins, apricots, and barberries (small, tart berries) are commonly used to add sweetness and depth of flavor to many dishes, especially Palow and desserts.
   • If you can’t find it…: Use a mixture of other dried fruits that are more readily available.

3. Fresh Herbs: Aromatic flavor enhancers.

   • Description: Fresh herbs like dill, cilantro (coriander), and parsley are used liberally in many dishes, adding freshness and aroma. They’re often used as a garnish or mixed into soups and salads.
   • If you can’t find it…: Use dried herbs, but be aware that their flavor is more concentrated.

4. Rice: Used extensively in many national dishes.

   • Description: Rice is a staple in Turkmen cuisine, particularly in Palow. Different varieties of rice are used, each contributing a unique texture and flavor to the dishes.
   • If you can’t find it…: Use any long-grain rice as a good substitution.

V. 5 Fascinating Facts You May Not Know About Ashgabat

Beyond the food, Ashgabat offers a wealth of cultural experiences.

1. Ashgabat is known for its unusual architecture. The city has been rebuilt multiple times, and it is covered in gold-plated structures and white marble buildings, earning it the nickname “The City of White Marble.” This architectural style gives the city a unique and often surreal appearance.
2. The Karakum Desert, one of the largest deserts in the world, surrounds Ashgabat, influencing the climate and landscape of the region. The desert’s proximity impacts the availability of certain ingredients and the seasonality of the cuisine.
3. The city is home to the world’s largest indoor Ferris wheel, housed within the Alem Cultural Entertainment Center. This adds to the city’s modern and unique identity.
4. The Independence Monument in Ashgabat is a striking memorial dedicated to the independence of Turkmenistan from the Soviet Union. It is a powerful symbol of the country’s history and identity.
5. The local currency, the Turkmen manat, is often adorned with images of the President and national symbols.

VI. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) About Dining in Ashgabat

Are reservations required at most restaurants? Reservations are not usually required, especially at local restaurants. But if you plan on dining at a popular, upscale restaurant, it’s always a good idea to call ahead.

Is it safe to drink tap water? It’s generally recommended to drink bottled water in Ashgabat to avoid any potential stomach issues.

What’s the best way to find authentic local food markets? The bazaars (markets) are the best places to experience the authentic local food culture. Toklubash Bazaar is a good option.

How do I ask for the bill in local language? Say, “Hisap bereń” (pronounced hee-SAP beh-REN).

Is it common to order multiple courses? Ordering multiple courses is not necessarily common, especially in casual settings. People often enjoy a main dish with side dishes. If you want multiple courses, feel free to order them.

Are credit cards widely accepted? Credit cards are not widely accepted outside of some high-end hotels and restaurants. It’s advisable to carry cash.

What is the policy on bringing your own wine? It’s usually not allowed to bring your own wine to restaurants. Most restaurants have a good wine selection.

VII. Conclusion: Embark on Your Culinary Journey in Ashgabat

Ashgabat offers a culinary experience like no other, blending traditional flavors with the unique charm of Central Asia. From the aromatic Palow to the flavorful shashlik, the dishes are an unforgettable experience. We encourage you to dive in and explore the vibrant local cuisine. This is a country with rich culture, and the food here will be a highlight of your visit. What Turkmen dish are you most excited to try? Share your culinary adventures in the comments below! Bon appétit!