Imagine the warm, humid air, perfumed with the exotic scent of cinnamon, cloves, and curry leaves, hitting you as you step into Kandy, Sri Lanka. Are you dreaming of a culinary adventure that will tantalize your taste buds and immerse you in a rich culture? This guide is your key to unlocking the secrets of Kandy’s vibrant food scene. We’ll navigate the must-try dishes, explore dining etiquette, introduce you to essential ingredients, and sprinkle in some fascinating facts along the way. Get ready to experience Kandy like a local, one delicious bite at a time!
A Taste of History: The Influences on Kandy’s Cuisine
Kandy’s cuisine is a delicious tapestry woven from centuries of history and cultural exchange. The central highlands, where Kandy is located, were historically a hub for spice trading, attracting traders from across the globe. This led to a fusion of flavors, with influences from Dutch, Portuguese, Malay, and South Indian cuisines blending seamlessly with traditional Sri Lankan cooking methods. The result is a unique and diverse culinary landscape that continues to evolve today. The Dutch Burghers, for example, left a lasting legacy in dishes like Lamprais.
Local Specialties: Must-Try Dishes in Kandy
No trip to Kandy is complete without indulging in the local specialties. Here are some must-try dishes to kickstart your culinary journey:
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Lamprais (Rice Packet): A Dutch Burgher Legacy
- Description: A culinary masterpiece, Lamprais showcases the fusion of cultures in Sri Lanka. This dish consists of rice cooked in meat stock, usually with a flavorful curry (chicken, beef, or pork being common choices), a delightful medley of vegetables (eggplant, beans, spinach), a savory meatball, and a fried egg. The entire package is then wrapped in a fragrant banana leaf and baked or steamed, infusing it with a unique aroma.
- Origin/History: A delicious inheritance from the Dutch colonial period, Lamprais is a testament to the cultural exchange that shaped Sri Lankan cuisine.
- Where to Find It: This is a weekend treat at restaurants specializing in Sri Lankan cuisine. Family-run “rice and curry” establishments are a great place to find them.
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Kottu Roti (Chopped Roti): The Street Food Symphony
- Description: The ultimate street food experience! Kottu Roti is a vibrant stir-fry featuring chopped roti (flatbread), a colourful mix of vegetables (carrots, leeks, onions), a choice of meat or seafood (often chicken or beef), and a generous helping of spices. The chefs create a captivating rhythm as they prepare the dish on a hot griddle, chopping the ingredients with two metal blades. The dish is often served with a flavourful gravy.
- Origin/History: The rhythmic chopping sound, unique to Kottu Roti’s preparation, adds to the street food atmosphere.
- Where to Find It: Street food stalls and casual restaurants are the best spots to enjoy this Kandy specialty.
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Hoppers (Appa): Bowl-Shaped Pancakes
- Description: These bowl-shaped pancakes are made from a fermented batter of rice flour and coconut milk. The edges are delightfully crispy, while the center remains soft. Egg Hoppers take it a step further with a perfectly cooked fried egg nestled in the center.
- Origin/History: Hoppers are a staple throughout Sri Lanka, a popular breakfast and light meal.
- Where to Find It: You can find Hoppers everywhere - from street vendors to small local eateries, particularly in the morning hours.
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String Hoppers (Idiyappa): The Noodle Nests
- Description: Steamed rice noodles pressed into a nest-like shape. They are typically served with curries, coconut sambol, and dhal.
- Origin/History: String hoppers are a breakfast or dinner food, often part of a larger feast.
- Where to Find It: Restaurants serving Sri Lankan cuisine commonly offer string hoppers.
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Rice and Curry: The Heart of Sri Lankan Cuisine
- Description: At the heart of Sri Lankan cuisine, rice and curry features steamed rice accompanied by a selection of curries. A typical spread includes vegetable curry, meat or fish curry, dhal (lentil curry), and a variety of sambols (chutneys). The selection of curries varies depending on the day, but always offers a hearty and flavorful experience.
- Origin/History: This meal is a tradition that spans generations and uses ingredients sourced from the island.
- Where to Find It: You can find this dish in almost any restaurant in Kandy. The smaller, family-run establishments offer some of the best versions.
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Watalappan: A Sweet Malay Influence
- Description: A rich, creamy coconut custard pudding that’s infused with the warm spices of cardamom, cloves, and the sweetness of jaggery (palm sugar). Sometimes, it includes the addition of cashew nuts.
- Origin/History: This dish is believed to have originated with the Malay community in Sri Lanka, another delicious example of cultural blending.
- Where to Find It: Often served as a dessert after meals in local restaurants.
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Pol Sambol (Coconut Sambol): The Spicy Side
- Description: A spicy, flavorful condiment made from fresh, grated coconut, mixed with chili powder, red onions, lime juice, and sometimes a hint of dried Maldive fish for an extra layer of flavour.
- Origin/History: This sambol is a common condiment, a staple in Sri Lankan cuisine.
- Where to Find It: Pol Sambol is a common accompaniment to many meals in Kandy and can be found in rice and curry restaurants and local establishments.
Navigating the Table: Dining Etiquette in Kandy
Understanding local dining etiquette will enhance your experience:
- Tipping: Tipping is customary for good service. A 10% tip is appreciated, especially in tourist-oriented establishments. If there is a service charge added to the bill, additional tipping is not generally expected, but still appreciated.
- Greetings: A polite smile and a nod are usually sufficient. You can also say “Ayubowan” (pronounced ah-yoo-boh-wahn), which is the traditional greeting and means “May you have a long life.”
- Using Cutlery: Tourists are typically provided with cutlery. Locals may use their hands, particularly for rice and curry. If eating with your hands, use your right hand, as the left hand is considered unclean.
- Sharing Food: Sharing food is common, particularly within family-style meals. Don’t be surprised if others offer you a taste of their dishes.
- Pace of Dining: Meals are often enjoyed at a leisurely pace. Embrace the relaxed atmosphere and savour each bite.
- Appropriate Attire: Dress respectfully, especially when visiting religious sites. Shoulders and knees should be covered. Restaurants are mostly casual, but some fine dining establishments may suggest smart casual attire.
- Getting Attention: To get a waiter’s attention, make eye contact and raise your hand slightly. Calling out is generally not done.
Key Local Ingredients: The Building Blocks of Kandy’s Flavors
The distinct flavors of Kandy cuisine come from the careful use of local ingredients:
- Coconut: Used in various forms (milk, cream, grated) in countless dishes, adding a rich, creamy flavour.
- Substitution: Coconut milk or cream.
- Rice: The staple grain, used in various forms.
- Substitution: It’s tough to substitute rice, but you could use a similar grain like couscous or quinoa.
- Spices: Cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, curry leaves, and chili.
- Substitution: Curry powders or individual spices.
- Jaggery: A traditional non-centrifugal cane sugar.
- Substitution: Brown sugar.
- Curry Leaves: An essential herb.
- Substitution: Bay leaves or a combination of fresh basil and a pinch of fenugreek seeds will work.
Beyond the Plate: 5 Fascinating Facts About Kandy
- Temple of the Tooth: Kandy is home to the Temple of the Tooth (Sri Dalada Maligawa), a UNESCO World Heritage site housing a sacred relic: a tooth of the Buddha. This temple has significant religious importance.
- Kandy Lake: The beautiful Kandy Lake (Bogambara Lake) is an artificial lake built in 1807 by King Sri Wickrama Rajasinghe, adding to the scenic charm of the city.
- Royal Capital: Kandy was the last capital of the ancient kings of Sri Lanka, a testament to its historical significance.
- Esala Perahera: The annual Esala Perahera festival is one of the grandest Buddhist festivals in the world, a vibrant procession held in July or August, and a major celebration in Kandy.
- Royal Botanic Garden: The Royal Botanic Garden, Peradeniya, near Kandy, is renowned for its vast collection of orchids, spices, and other tropical plants, adding to the city’s natural beauty.
Frequently Asked Questions About Kandy Cuisine
Are reservations required at most restaurants? Reservations are generally recommended for finer dining establishments and during peak hours. For casual restaurants and street food, you can usually walk in.
Is it safe to drink the tap water? It’s generally not recommended to drink tap water in Sri Lanka. Bottled water is widely available and inexpensive.
What’s the best way to find authentic local food markets? Ask locals! They’ll gladly point you to the best and least touristy markets.
Are there any food-related festivals I should know about? The Esala Perahera festival involves various food stalls and traditional treats.
How do I ask for the bill in Sinhala? You can ask for the bill by saying “Billa dennako” (pronounced bill-ah den-na-koh).
Are credit cards widely accepted? Credit cards are accepted in larger restaurants, hotels, and shops. Smaller establishments and street vendors may only accept cash.
What is the policy on bringing your own wine? Some restaurants may allow you to bring your own wine, but it’s best to inquire beforehand. A corkage fee may apply.
Conclusion: Savoring the Flavors of Kandy
Kandy’s cuisine offers an enriching journey. Explore the bustling markets, sample the diverse dishes, and immerse yourself in the vibrant world of Kandy’s food culture. From the spicy curries to the sweet desserts, there’s a culinary experience for everyone. Embrace the flavors, share a meal with a local, and create memories that will last a lifetime. Share your favourite Kandy food experiences in the comments below! Bon appétit!